mizepools
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![[*]](./images/corporate/default_icon.gif) posted on 26-3-10 at 07:17 PM |
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Steps Gasket
What's the best way to approach a leak around the steps gasket, skimmer gasket, Light, return , and main drain ?
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1215
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Location: murfreesboro,tn.
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| posted on 27-3-10 at 11:35 AM |
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IN MY EXPERIENCE EACH IS CASE SPECIFIC,,, NOT TO GIVE AN AMBIGUOUS REPLY BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL APPROCHES TO EACH.
MAIN DRAINS GASKETS ARE PRETTY EASY TO REPLACE UNDER WATER,, SKIMMER GASKETS ARE A LITTLE MORE CASE SPECIFIC. IF THE POOL HAS METAL WALLS CHANCES ARE
THE METAL IS RUSTED DUE TO LEAK. IN THAT CASE I TRY TO BE CAUTIOUS CAUSE IF I REMOVE THE SKIMMER FACE PLATE I COULD END UP WITH A MESS OF METAL DEBRIS
BEHIND THE LINER. I USUALLY TRY TO WAIT UNTIL LINER REPLACEMENT AND MOVE THE SKIMMER TO A PLACE THAT AIN'T ROTTEN.
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robassetto
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| posted on 27-3-10 at 06:48 PM |
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when repairing any faceplate it is best to float the liner i find. most of the time. if your liner is floating then i find it to be a much easier
time putting the screws back through the holes in liner. i have had times with step gaskets that for whatever reason the liner pulled out from the
step gasket and i had to loosen the gasket up, float the liner and pull it up past the gasket and tighen down the screws. but just like 1215 said
each one is very case specific.
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brrscuba
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| posted on 29-3-10 at 08:38 AM |
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Complicated question with many different answers depending on the unique situation present. (minor/major leaks, tears, stripped screws, rotten walls,
ground water issues, age of the vinyl liner)
Stair Gasket leak: Small area, I usually remove the screws at the leak and a couple inches to each side, most often finding a tear originating from a
screw hole and the liner pulled down, slide a patch up under the molding, apply flexible sealer under molding also, then screw it down tight, I often
find that I have to go with larger screws as the old ones were stripped and that was the actual cause of the problem
Skimmer gasket: if leak is on the inside I usually just seal it with epoxy cement, if the liner is torn off the bottom then I remove the bottom row of
screws, slide a patch under the entire bottom, replace screws and seal the inside with epoxy
Light: same as above
Return: remove faceplate, apply flexible sealer under liner, cut away wrinkled vinyl, patch over the entire area, reinstall a new faceplate, cut the
opening
Main Drain: if no tear, just small leak under gasket, just epoxy it and check each screw and maybe go to a bigger size for more grip, if torn off you
might be able to use the methods listed above or if the bottom material has been eroded by the water flowing thru the leak you might be better
illiminating the main (remove the retaining ring, try to refill any washed out bottom material with sand, install a flat fiberglass plate over the
sump, then a huge patch)
I almost never replace gaskets, I avoid floating a liner unless it is nearly new.
Experience will be your best guide. Carry a huge selection of screw sizes and lenths.
Bruce
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1215
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Location: murfreesboro,tn.
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| posted on 30-3-10 at 03:40 AM |
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THANKS, BRUCE MADE ME THINK. i ALSO HAVE AN ADAPTEPTER THAT IS A BLOW DOWN BIB ON MY AIR LINE . IT MAKES A SORT MININ AIR DREDGE THAT SUCKS DIRT OUT
OF MD SCREW HOLES IN THE CASE OF DIRT OR BOTTOM MATERIAL INADVERTENTLY LEFT IN SCREW HOLES.
ANOTHER USE OF AIR DREDGE TECH I USE IS TO DROP THE LITE FROM NICHE AND FREE FLOW 2ND STAGE IN NICHE. IT SAVES TIME AND CAUSES MUD, AND DEBRIS FROM
NICHE TO EVACUATE QUICKLY.
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