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Topic Review
pguthrie

[*] posted on 23-1-12 at 12:34 PM
There is no air in the baffle tube, with the exception of little.bubbles. i have always tossed the tube out as far as i can, letting the end weight sink, followed by the slide weight. Does it matter if the tube is uncoiled?
Poolman

[*] posted on 21-1-12 at 12:27 PM
Essential to make sure no air in the clear tube, I always put the head unit very slow into the water, not sure its neccesary but I figure you don't want an air pocket that can expand/contract. Ditto with the tube, put it in bit like filling a vac hose.
;)
pguthrie

[*] posted on 19-1-12 at 01:51 PM
Thanks for the response.

Yea, I've thought about that as well, but this pool has the pump & filter below water level.
Poolman

[*] posted on 19-1-12 at 12:15 PM
I put it down to drain down from filter/pump if the plant is above the water line, also seems important to allow temperature stabilisation especially when coming into an indoor pool from the cold.
Have seen the reading go up with drips from the bubble cover dropping into the pool!
pguthrie

[*] posted on 18-1-12 at 01:05 PM
I've been using the leakalyzer for over a month now and like it a lot. My question is, I have had some test in both residential pools (skimmers) and commercial pools (scum gutters) where the graph goes above the zero line and continues in the negative readings. These pools have any fresh water lines turned off. Has anyone figured out why that would be?

I know temperature can play with the sensors at first, so i normally run 1 or 2 short test (5min or less) until i start getting good readings. The only thing i can think of is wind getting stronger as the test goes on?

I am at a pool right now and did a 15 min test ( comm pool w/ scum gutter). It showed a loss. I reset, and the wind picked up as i started #2 and now get negative numbers.

On a different note, i've been going back over the previous postings, and have already learned a bunch. Thank you all for the knowledge... this is a great forum & community.

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